Mexico: The Land of a Hundred Pueblos Mágicos
Most people who come to Mexico, mostly know its stunning resorts. However, the real Mexico lies much beyond the walls of its resorts.
My 34th birthday was approaching, which only meant one thing: It was time for me to book my next holiday. Having traveled much of Asia and Europe in the past, I chose Mexico as my next trip. Also considering that I was based out of Canada at the time, it only made more sense thanks to the proximity.
My itinerary on this trip was as follows:
-Playa del Carmen: 2 nights
-San Cristobal de Las Casas: 2 nights
-Merida: 4 nights
-Mexico City: 5 nights
Mayan Riviera: Tourist Hub and Entry Point
I flew with Westjet Airlines into Cancun. Upon arrival, I was astonished at the swarms of tourists flocking in. It was June of 2020, and most travel restrictions and health mandates were easing. At the time, Mexico did not require any testing or proof of vaccination, which made it an even more popular choice for international travelers.
Cancun is famous for its enormous megaresorts and its boisterous nightlife. However, I chose to stay at the nearby town of Playa del Carmen for its more humble beachtown feel and proximity to other destinations on the Mayan Riviera, a long stretch of the Caribbean coast in the state of Quintana Roe—where both cities are located. From Cancun airport, I had booked a seat in a shuttle bus directly to my hotel in Playa del Carmen, and I arrived there after a 40-minute ride.
La Quinta or 5th Avenue, Playa del Carmen’s Main Shopping and Pedestrian Street
I had booked two nights at the beachfront Hotel Colibri Beach. Additionally, it has a beach bar with live music that is frequented by hotel guests and those staying nearby. The staff at the hotel were very friendly and my room was decorated in a simple resort style with a balcony and a comfortable hammock to lounge in. It cost less than 80 USD per night (which is significantly less than what I would have paid had I stayed in Cancun). The only downside to my stay was that the beach was full of algae at the time, and it was impossible to swim in the sea—apparently, that occurs frequently in Playa del Carmen and Cancun.
Hotel Colibri Beach is also located within 2 minutes of the 5th Avenue, a long street of 15+ blocks of shopping, restaurants and bars. Here you can find Mexican souvenirs, resort fashion, seafood and many bars offering happy hour cocktails for the price of one (quality not always guaranteed). 5th Avenue or Quinta Avenida in Spanish is the center of all the action on Playa del Carmen. As a modern city that grew recently, Playa del Carmen does not have many nice old buildings that Mexico is famous for, and there isn’t much sightseeing within the city itself.
I also kept my trip to the Mayan Riviera as an entry point to other cities and parts of Mexico that I had wanted to explore. As a solo traveler, I tend to get bored on beaches and beach resorts. Nonetheless, there are still lots of things to do there and many of them involve water activities.
Upon arrival to the hotel, I took a stroll up on fifth avenue then had tacos and a mojito at the hotel beach bar before going to bed early to catch up on sleep. I had booked a tour of 2 archeological sites for the next day, Tulum and Cobá, in addition to a visit to a cenote (or a type of natural swimming pool that is endemic to this region). The tour cost about $70 USD.
The Mayan Riviera is named after the Mayans, the Indigenous civilization whose descendants continue to inhabit this southern part of Mexico, and they make up a large proportion of the local population to this day. There are many archaeological sites with significance to Mayan culture in and around the Mayan riviera.
In the morning, I was picked up by the tour operated near the hotel. After waiting for about half an hour at another meeting point, we were finally ready to go to our first stop: Tulum.
The Tulum Archeological Ruins, one of the most famous Mayan attractions in Mexico
Tulum is located about an hour south of Playa del Carmen. It is another resort destination that is less popular than Cancun, but that has many upscale eco resorts. Tulum’s main attraction is the Tulum Archaeological Zone or simply the Tulum Ruins. It is the site of the pre-Hispanic ancient city that was occupied until the middle of the last century and served as a port to the nearby city of Cobá, further into the jungle. What makes the Tulum Ruins so attractive to tourists is that it is easily accessible on foot, and the well-preserved structures overlook pristine turquoise waters. In that sense, Tulum is unique, as it is the only site that combines Mayan ruins with gorgeous sea views. The views were stunning, but we didn’t last too long in the Tulum ruins because of the heat. If you visit in the daytime, it gets insanely hot and humid, so come prepared with water and sunscreen.
From Tulum, we headed up another road to reach the ancient city of Cobá. At its glory, the city was an important kingdom in the Mayan empire and housed up to 50,000 residents at a time, according to some estimates. It is located within a lush forest and takes about half an hour to reach the main sites by foot. Alternatively, you can take a bicycle taxi for a few dollars. The main structure is a tall pyramid that was also home to Mayan ceremonies and sports events, some of which involved human sacrifices. You can also climb up the steep pyramid for an immersive view of the surrounding jungle. Many structures around Cobá are yet to be explored and are covered in thick vegetation. On that day, however, visitors were not allowed to climb up the pyramid stairs. Still, the visit was absolutely worth it.
Cobá Archaeological Ruins
Our final stop, and perhaps the highlight of our trip was a swim in a cenote. Cenotes are natural sinkholes formed either within closed structures such as caves or outdoors. They also held special meaning to the Mayans and were seen as a portal to the world beyond. Our tour took us to the Cenote Azul, which is one of the more popular outdoor cenotes around Tulum. The crystal clear water provided much relief to the blazing heat on that day. In fact, there are said to be over 1,000 cenotes in Quintana Roo and the Yucatan peninsula. If you have a few extra days to spare, you can explore all the famous ones. Another popular attraction nearby is the island of Cozumel where you can stay overnight or visit on a day trip for scuba diving and snorkeling.
San Cristobal de Las Casas: Magic and Mysticism in the Mountains
The following day, I had an early afternoon flight to the nearby state of Chiapas. Because of a shortage of convenient flight times, I could only stay there for 2 nights. Chiapas has plenty to explore and I wish I could have stayed there for longer. I took a Viva Aerous flight from Cancun airport to Tuxtla Guttierez, the largest city in Chiapas. Tuxtla itself does not offer much to see, and my stay in Chiapas was at the majestic mountain town of San Cristonal de Las Casas. I was picked up at the Tuxtla airport, and my private taxi ride to San Cristobal cost about $45 USD. The drive up the hills of Chiapas was very comfortable with stunning scenery on both sides of the highway as we also passed the famous Sumadero Canyon on our way.
San Cristobal de las Casas is ranked as a Pueblo Mágico or ‘Magic City’. The Mexican tourism board has designated over 100 such towns throughout the country based on their outstanding natural, architectural or cultural importance to the country.
I booked my stay at Hotel Diego de Mazariegos. It is an old, luxurious hacienda converted into a hotel in the center of the town. The hotel is intricately decorated with a beautiful courtyard and an onsite restaurant. My room was everything I was hoping for in a colonial mountain town hotel; it was roomy with comfortable bedding and beautiful wood furnace in the ceiling-all for under 40 USD per night. Prices in Chiapas are much more affordable than nearby Playa del Carmen and Oaxaca for everything ranging from high-end hotels to meals and drinks.
As soon as I checked in, my plan was to head straight to San Cristobal’s famous artisan market. Once I left the hotel, however, it started raining, so I hid in one of the side streets to have lunch.
The rain in San Cristobal is very strong, so make sure to have a slicker on hand. Being high in the mountains and surrounded by greenery, the fog makes your visit to this gorgeous colonial-era town even more special. The mix of mainstream Mexico, Indigenous presence and foreign tourists makes for an even more unique experience. San Cristobal de las Casas has an energy to it that I haven’t felt anywhere else. Add to it its beautifully preserved historical center with colorful old buildings, and you have my favorite little city in Mexico.
The outdoor artisan market in San Cristobal de las Casas is located on stairs surrounding the Santo Domingo church. As soon as you approach it, the colors pop out and speak right to your soul. Unlike many souvenir and ‘artisan’ markets, this one is the real deal and most items here are unique and handmade. Vendors from the nearby Indigenous communities of Zinocantan and San Juan de Chamula make the trip everyday to sell beautifully embroidered textiles in the form of clothing and homeware, as well as leather goods and jewelry at very fair and attainable rates. Each tribe has their own techniques and patterns, as evident in their designs. Chiapas is the poorest state in Mexico, and it is evident in some places. Indigenous communities are at an even higher disadvantage, so buying arts and crafts directly from local vendors makes a direct impact. You can also book a tour to visit and learn more about their communities, traditions and craftsmanship, but I was pressed for time during this visit.
As a lover (and hoarder) of artesanías, I had made sure to keep extra space in my suitcase after intensive research about this market. The region is famous for its traditional textile weaving and use of vivid colors passed along generations of Mayan tradition. The beauty of this market, its friendly vendors and the quality of the goods offered exceeded my expectations.
San Cristobal de Las Casas Artesanal Market, one of my favourites in the world
After the artisan market, I had another market on my list of places to visit in San Cristobal de las Casas. The mercado de las dulces, or sweets market, is a small but also very colorful place with about 20 vendors, each selling homemade arrangements of candy and sweets. The sweets are also beautifully designed and are works of art in themselves, with a wide range of regional and Mexican varieties. It is a great place to pick up a gift for friends back home.
Later in the evening, I had a delicious steak at my hotel and went for a walk in the nearby streets. San Cristobal de las Casas is a very safe city, especially in the historical center. The locals are very friendly and are happy to share directions if you are lost. I went into a nearby bar for some beer and to try a shot of Mezcal, Tequila’s less famous cousin that is also made from the agave plant. Mezcal is more popular in southern Mexico and originated in the nearby state of Oaxaca. While it was too strong for my taste buds, it was still an interesting experience to share a shot with the local bartender who demonstrated how to drink Mezcal properly. I turned 34 that night, but could not party too late because I had an early tour planned for the next day.
Casadas de Chiflon is one of Mexico’s tallest waterfalls, located some 80 kilometers outside of San Cristobal de las Casas. It is made up of 5 tiers or levels, each one offering an entry and a viewpoint. It was an exceptionally hot day as we started to approach noon and the hike up was strenuous but very rewarding at the end. These waterfalls are considered one of the wonders of Mexico and are definitely worth a visit for when in Chiapas.
About another two hours south of the Chiflon Waterfalls lie the stunning Montebello Lakes. It is a series of about 50 lakes, with 3 famous and accessible ones.
The Lakes are also known as Lagunas de Colores or Lakes of Colors and have been a sacred place for the local Mayan communities. Each of the lakes offers vantage points with immersive views and different colors, ranging from emerald green to clear turquoise. You can also rent a boat in one of the lakes or simply walk around to marvel at their beauty. The Montebello Lake Park is a large area that sits right on the Guatemala border.
In fact, upon crossing the emerald lake from one side, we passed into Guatemalan territory. There is a small artisanal market set up there offering textiles, tribal masks and souvenirs from Guatemala. While the culture of Chiapas and Guatemala are very similar, the artisan goods here were slightly different, so I picked up some here as well to add variety to my collection. Mexican pesos are accepted here, and you don’t need to bring your passport to claim that you’ve visited Guatemala at this entry point.
The drive was long and strenuous, with many curvy roads, but the mix of vegetation at different altitude levels, from tropical palm trees to tall pines, made it an exceptionally interesting trip through rural Chiapas. After close to 12 hours on the road, I really bonded with the driver, Gustavo. I saved his number and shared it with my cousin, Nour, who used his services when she visited Chiapas a year later. I was delighted to learn that Gustavo was still offering tours and that his business had grown significantly. Upon coming back to my hotel, I had a nightime meal of tamales, which are particularly famous in this region of Mexico and pack just the right amount of flavor and spice. I had to take another flight in the morning to Merida, so did not stay up too late.
There are many more places in Chiapas that I would love to discover on my next trip, including the Cascadas de Agua Azul natural swimming pools and the Palenque archeological Park. Both sites are located on the other end of the state, so I will make sure to allocate at least 5 nights in Chiapas on my next visit. Chiapas truly captured my soul, and its beauty and mystical energy made it the highlight of this trip to Mexico.
Visiting the Colorful Mexican State of Chiapas is an Unparalleled Experience
Merida: Elegance and Old-World Sophistication
In the morning, I took a direct flight from Tuxtla Gutierrez airport in Chiapas to Merida, the capital of the state of Yucatan.
I booked my stay at the Casa del Balam for 4 nights. The hotel was very conveniently located in the city center and only two blocks from the Merida Cathedral at Merida’s central square, La Plaza de Armas. Established in 1970, it is also locally known as ‘The Grandmother of Hotels’ in Merida for being one of the oldest operating hotels in the city. The hotel has a swimming pool and an adjacent bar that is open to the public. The service and amenities are basic, and the décor and elevator are very dated, which add a bit of charm to the place. My room cost somewhere in the $40 range per night.
Merida is a very affordable destination and most activities and services cost very little. With a population of about one million inhabitants, It also ranks as one of the safest cities in North America (just after Quebec City), and it does not involve the safety concerns that other Mexican cities pose. Here, it is perfectly fine to hail a taxi off the street and not have to rely on Uber or other rideshare apps. Also, and despite being a budget destination, Merida attracts a much more mature and cultured crowd. It doesn’t offer the rowdy party scene of Cancún.
After checking in to the hotel, I wanted to see some of the museums that are popular in Merida. My first stop was the Museum of Contemporary Art, which was a short walk from the hotel. The museum displays works by artists from the Yucatan and all over Mexico, with a special focus on local artist Fernando Garcia Ponce. I am not a huge fan of modern art, but considering that the works are Mexican, the art in this museum was very colorful and interesting to look at.
From then on, I took a taxi to the Paseo Montejo. It is a very elegant boulevard built in Parisian style, with opulent mansions on both sides of the leafy streets. The long trees provide much needed shade in the scorching Merida heat. On Paseo Montejo, I visited the Museum of Archeology or Palacio Canton. It is a small, two-story museum that exhibits pottery and relics discovered in the area, as well as several rotating exhibitions dedicated to showcasing the culture of the Yucatan.
Nearby, I also visited the Museo Quinta Montes Molina, which is the grandiose old home of the Montejo family. The house has been preserved in its original state since the early 20th century, with all of its original décor, and offers a view of how wealthy families lived in Merida at the time. In fact, and less than two centuries ago, Merida was one of the wealthiest cities in the new world. The region’s greatest resource was henequin, an agave-like plant used in fiber production. It made local merchants very rich at the time. The mansions on Paseo Montejo are a clear testament to Merida’s bygone glory days.
Merida is also home to the Mundo Maya or Mayan World Museum, with the largest collection of relics and artefacts discovered in ancient Mayan sites. However, it was closed for restoration during my time in Merida.
After a day full of walking and museums, I headed back to the neighborhood where I was staying to watch the light show at the Merida Cathedral. The Merida Cathedral dates back to the early 16th century and is actually the first cathedral to be completed in the Americas. It comprises the city’s main square the center of all evening activity in Merida. The structure is beautiful, and there are evening shows with light displays illuminating the building at night, which draws hundreds of tourists and locals to the main square.
Not having gotten enough of cenotes during my stay in the Mayan Riviera, I booked a tour of 2 more cenotes on this side of the peninsula for the next day. Both two cenotes in the town of Mucuyche, both of them were closed or located deep underground so the pools were reached by climbing down a narrow set of stairs. There were very few visitors at the time, and I pretty much had the place (and pristine water inside the pool) all to my myself.
My tour also included a trip to the nearby Hacienda Yaxcopoil, an architectural delight and massive 17th century palace complex and henequin plantation that housed the landowner family and hundreds of workers who endured grueling labor conditions. The hacienda is relatively well preserved, with the landlords’ main house displaying some of the original furniture, portraits and even a small church. There are also the rooms displaying the original machinery used in the production of fiber from henequin and many black and white photographs detailing the process and the scores of workers on the field. Henequin declined in importance by the 20th century, and so did the wealth of Merida’s aristocracy.
The tour ended with typical homemade Yucatan food in the home of a local grandma. I got to see first-hand how traditional tortilla cornbread is prepared with blended beans and baked at home.
The Yucatan Peninsula is home to many ancient Mayan sites. The most popular one is Chichen Itza, located on a route between Merida and Cancun. This large site is famous for its pyramid and is visited by millions of tourists yearly. However, I did not visit Chichen Itza and felt more compelled to see the ruins of Uxmal instead. The latter is part of the Puuc Route of ancient Mayan settlements, it is less famous but much more visually striking than Chichen Itza (at least in my opinion).
Uxmal is about 60 kilometers south of Merida. The site is adorned by a massive pyramid (also known as The Magician’s Pyramid) with soft edges at its center. It flourished as one of the most important cities in Mayan civilization, and is believed to be even larger than Chichen Itza as it is covered in forests. Visitors can also admire the many vivid carvings of humans, animals and mythical creatures on the pyramid’s summit and the nearby structures. Like many other Mayan cities, Uxmal also features a court where the grueling and cruel football games were practiced for spectators. Uxmal also features its own lights and sounds show at night, and tickets must be reserved separately. There were only a handful of visitors when I was at Uxmal, so I had plenty of room to wander around this majestic complex and take pictures.
Uxmal is Majestic and Undervisited, Like Having a Whole Kingdom to Yourself
On our way back to Merida, we stopped by an abandoned Hacienda, located on a rural side street to take pictures. The interior was closed to visitors, and the building was overgrown with vegetation, which added even more mystery to the place. Many gorgeous mansions, villas and haciendas on Merida’s outskirts or in the city center remain abandoned and tell the story of the city’s glorious past.
There are many other day trips to take from Merida, but for the next two days I chose to relax by the hotel pool and take advantage of its central location to explore the nearby streets, with its brightly-colored historical buildings, shops and restaurants. There are many crafts and souvenirs to pick up from Merida. The state is famous for its hand-embroidered cotton and linen clothes. Some feature beautiful beading and are all hand-sewn. I picked up two traditional Guayabera shirts with bright floral patches, for about $50 each. They are the perfect attire to wear in the Mexican heat at daytime or over a pair of trousers to a cocktail bar.
The food in the Yucatan is also very good, and spicy. The Yucatan is actually the largest producer of Habanero Peppers, and you can pick up plenty of Habanero sauce to take back home and add flaming spice to your dishes. There are many varieties, each with its own spice level. Another local dish that I fell in love with in Merida was the Sopa de Lima, or Lime Soup. It is a hot soup with vegetables and your choice of meat in a lime juice broth, and topped with tortilla chips. It is both sour and citrusy, and is considered a signature dish in the state of Yucatan.
If you visit southern Mexico, Merida is absolutely a must. I would actually recommend it over Cancun and Playa del Carmen for its cleanliness, safety and surviving cultural heritage. The city’s only disadvantage is that it is not located by the sea, but there is a popular beach called Playa Progresso 40 minutes to the north by car.
One little thing to be wary of when in Mexico is that the streets and sidewalks are really even. On my last day in Merida, I tripped and sprained my ankle. I had to spend the rest of my trip with a limp, but that didn’t stop me from having a busy itinerary. I was particularly for my next stop, Mexico City, and all of the great sights and activities that grandiose city offers.
The Architectural Legacy of Merida: Mayan, Colonial and Art-Deco
Mexico City: Latin American Cultural Powerhouse
From Merida, it was about a 90-minute flight with Viva Aerobus to my last destination in this trip, Mexico City, the nation’s capital and the largest city in the North American continent–and among the largest in the world. For lovers of history, food, arts and culture, there is no shortage of things to do and see in Mexico City. With a population of over 20 million, it is the largest city in the Spanish-speaking world and holds a lot of cultural, business and political power across Latin America.
A View of Chapultepec Park and Avenida Reforma
I booked Hotel Geneve for my 5-night stay in Mexico City. It is one of the oldest hotels in the city, and was actually the first to rent out rooms to single female guests back when it was a societal taboo. As a solo traveler, that really resonated with me. This boutique hotel is owned by Mexican billionaire and philanthropist Carlos Slim and is beautifully decorated from the lobby to the rooms, with many historical artefacts on display for visitors. In a way, it has the feel of a museum hotel, and despite its large size, it is not chain-operated and its rooms were reasonably priced considering the caliber of very high quality of the accommodation and service.
The hotel is located in Zona Rosa, a nightlife hotspot in Mexico City. The area is relatively safe at night, as there are many bars and nightclubs nearby and the streets are busy until the early morning. A few blocks away is Paseo de la Reforma, Mexico City’s main avenue with glitzy skyscrapers lining both sides of the street. Also within walking distance are Parque de Chapultepec, the second largest urban park in Latin America and the quaint bohemian neighborhoods of Roma and La Condesa.
Despite its exotic location, Mexico City sits at a high elevation. The weather can get cloudy and change on short notice. It is definitely recommended to avoid flip flops and to pack a light jacket for the evenings. Also, and as with most cities in Mexico, it is best to avoid hailing taxis from the street and booking your ride with a reliable application instead. Apart from that, I felt relatively safe and did not encounter any issues, despite the massive size of Mexico City.
Having arrived at my hotel in the afternoon, I booked a tour with local tour guide Carlos to explore the Chapultepec Park, nicknamed ‘The Lungs of Mexico City’. The park itself features many of Mexico City’s main attractions, including the Chapultepec Zoo, the Chapultepec Castle and the Museum of Anthropology.
Mexico City has the second most museums in the world after Paris. I was very excited for the Museum of Anthropology, Mexico’s largest museum and one of the best I have visited. The museum has over 20 exhibition rooms, and requires a lot of time. We only got to visit the highlights, which include showpieces from the Olmec, Mayan and Aztec civilizations. In addition to thousands of stunning relics that are preserved to perfection, there are a few life-sized reproductions of temples and sites of congregation. For lovers of history and ethnography, the site is not to be missed. Video cameras are not allowed within the museum, but I managed to take some pictures and videos with my phone.
From the Museum of Anthropology, we walked across the Chapultepec Park to the Chapultepec Castle. On our way there, we stopped at a memorial of the Niños Héroes or the six cadets who fought in the Mexican-US war. Prior to the 19th century, many southern US states belonged to Mexico. This site is formed of columns commemorating the Mexican soldiers who fought in these battles. Admission to Chapultepec Castle is about $5 USD. It is nestled on a small hill with beautiful views of the park area and Avenida de la Reforma from its balconies.
The castle was built in the late 18th century for the successive Viceroys of Spain, before Mexico gained its independence, and housed successive rules and presidents until the modern era. The castle interior’s original furniture has been preserved. There are many pieces on display that date back to the Viceroys period and visitors can marvel at the opulence of the rooms, from Empress Carlota’s bedroom (during the short-lived Mexican empire) and a reception room with malachite finishing and installations. The castle also has one of the most beautiful hallways I have seen, entirely covered in stained glass windows depicting Greek goddesses and beautifully illuminated in the natural light.
For the next day, I booked a tour of Mexico City’s historical center and La Ciudadela artisanal market with Carlos. We started at the glorious Plaza de la Constitucion or the Zocalo, Mexico City’s main square. It is one of the world’s largest public squares and houses many important government buildings. The site is built on top of the ancient city of Tenochtitlan. When the Spanish colonialists arrived, they destroyed much of the city, as they did in many indigenous cities in an effort to destroy the native culture and build their own Catholic-inspired architecture and culture. Some of the excavations surrounding the square and the Mexico City reveal a window into the city’s pre-Colombian civilization and Montezuma, its last reigning emperor. The ruins of the Templo Mayor stands in stark juxtaposition with the colonial stone buildings and the giant Mexico City Metropolitan Cathedral, which took over 250 years to build. It is this mix of indigenous and gothic, colonial architecture that add layers of complexity and a special otherworldly energy that can only be felt when in Mexico City’s Centro Historico.
The Remains of the Aztec City, Tenochtitlan, below Mexico City’s Historical Center
Over 500 Buildings in Mexico City’s Historical Center Date Back to the 16th Century
Fast forward a few centuries, and the adjacent Palacio de Bellas Artes remains the most beautiful building in Mexico City, with its exterior in neoclassical and art nuveau and a marble art-deco interior and elaborate murals that made Mexican art popular around the world. The nearby MUNAL or Museo Nacional de Arte houses paintings and sculptures from the era of Mexico’s independence to the early 20th century, and all of the artistic influences that marked that era—from Romanticism to Muralism. One stop architecture lovers can’t miss is the Palacio Postal, or the Post Office, which is still in operation since the early 1900’s. It is one of the most elegant and architecturally-diverse mail services center you’ll ever visit, designed by Italian architect Adam Boari, who headed many famous projects in Mexico.
Mexico City’s historical center stretches well beyond the Zocalo. There are over 500 preserved and centuries-old buildings, such as the tile-covered Casa Azulejos that form many streets and streets and alleyways forming a large neighborhood. One charming alleyway to check out has many stands selling used books, albeit mostly in Spanish, and is referred to as ‘the book alley.’ Our last stop was a traditional bar or a cantina.
The plush Bar La Opera is Mexico City’s most famous one, dating back to the 19th century. It features upscale French-style décor and is renowned for being the first drinking establishment to serve female patrons at a time when women could not publically socialize with men. After a long morning of walking, I enjoyed a classic mojito in one of Mexico City’s most elegant bars.
A short walk from the historical center, you can find La Ciudadela market, the largest artisanal market in Mexico City. Arts and handicrafts in Mexico are some of the most diverse in the world, every region or town has its own tradition and technique of craftsmanship, and it all ends up in La Ciudadela. There are hundreds of small shops selling everything from the common fridge magnets and Mariatchi aprons to much more authentic pieces, leading to an explosion of colors. Having researched Mexican art before arriving, I had my mind set on a few purchases to bring back home.
One of the most famous handicrafts from Mexica is the alebrije, specifically from the Oaxaca region. They are wooden figures with removable parts that are assembled like a puzzle. They often depict mythical creatures and animals with very vivid colors and very intricate details. While most are made out of wood, some also come in papier mache. Alebrijes are all handmade and take great effort and concentration to make, and prices range depending on size. I picked up four small pieces: one of a cactus, one of an armadillos, a dragon and an owl, to decorate my bookshelf with.
The Mexico City region and nearby state of Puebla are famous for the Arbol de Vida or Tree of Life art pieces. They are ceramic structures with a principal part and many smaller pieces held to it by extendable steel pins. Most trees of life depict biblical stories with beautiful designs and colors. I picked up a large one of a joyfully decorated, smiling Catrina skull with extendable accessories and a candleholder. The item weighed over 3 kilos, but I absolutely had to have it as soon as I saw it.
I also picked up some smaller items from La Ciudadela for myself and as gifts. I ended up visiting the market twice on separate days and spent hours wandering the shops. For lovers of artesanias, this market is an absolute must for when in Mexico City. It is like a crash course in Mexican art and has pieces from all regions of the country.
One of the Statement Pieces that I Bought at La Ciudadela
Another highlight trip I took with Viator combined Frida Kahlo’s house with the canals of Xochimilco. On the outskirts of Mexico City lies the artsy district of Coayacan. It is an area that housed many Mexican artists and intellectuals. The central park of the borough houses 2 coyote statues that are featured on many tourist guides.
Here, you can talk a short walk to the Blue House or more commonly known as Frida Kahlo’s houses. It is the former residence of Mexico’s most famous artistic duo: painter Frida Kahlo and her husband Diego Rivero. Their former house has been converted into a museum for the millions of visitors who come to pay their respects to the life of Frida, the artist who had a massive impact on modern art, in Mexico and internationally with her surrealism and magical realism paintings. On our way to Coyoacán and Frida’s house, we had also stopped at the national university or UNAM to admire the façade of the library building, which Diego Rivera decorated in his signature muralist style. While their relationship was turbulent and tragic, both Frida and Diego’s names are synonymous with Mexico’s artistic, social and political movements of the 20th century.
The most fun you are bound to have in Mexico City is in Xochimilco. Once you arrive, there are dozens of visually striking gondola’s decorated in bold Mexican colors, each with its own name. Once on board, you can order lunch and drinks from the nearby smaller boats that accompany the gondolas along the canal. Each boat can host up to 20 passengers and the ride took about an hour. The group that I met on the tour had a birthday girl, and considering that I was also celebrating my birthday that week, we were treated to 3 songs by one of the Mariachi bands that hopped on our boat. In fact, most groups that rent gondolas do it to celebrate a birthday or a graduation. The drinks kept coming and the atmosphere of happiness was contagious as we waved and cheered the groups on the gondolas bypassing us on the canal.
For the next 2 days in Mexico city, I spent time relaxing and exploring the city independently. Considering that my hotel was located right in the party district of Zona Rosa, I indulged in drinks and developed a taste for Mezcal-based cocktails. My trip was nearing its end, but I knew that I had to come back to Mexico and explore more of this colourful and highly-diverse country.
The year was 2021, and international travel was under an extremely high degree of health screening due to the pandemic. Upon arrival to Canada, I had to quarantine for three days at a hotel before proceeding to my house. It was an extra $ 1,200 expense to my trip, but I felt totally energized thanks to this trip—after having spent a lonely year working remotely from home.
